Tim,

That planer you just posted must really brighten up your shop!   Your
infeed roller experience sounds like more than a few frustrating
moments.  Very neat job on the restoration, even if yellow isn't my
own first choice.

http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=3057

Rich

Greetings folks!

I'm a newbie to old woodworking machines and a few woodworkers over
on Woodnet steered me in your direction.
The reason I'm posting is an old Delta/Milwaukee bandsaw I picked up
over the weekend. I'm not sure if I can post pics here so I'll
provide a link to the pics on the thread I started on Woodnet.

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?
Cat=&Number=1765826&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=

From the info I've got I believe it's a 1953 model. Serial # AO 4158.
Manufactured after they moved production to the Tupelo plant.

I'm thinking about disassembling it and sand/beadblasting then re-
painting the frame. Also I want to upgrade the motor (1 or 1/2? hp)
and I need a few parts. The belt guard being the biggest that I've
seen so far.

Any tips/hints/advice/resources would be greatly appreciated. I've
never tried to rebuild an old machine like this and I'm excited to
get moving. I've got a copy of the Iturra catalog. It looks like it
could be very easy to spend ALOT of money doing this! I'd also like
to get a copy of the original manual if possible.

Thanks for any help you can provide. It's nice to see a forum
dedicated to old iron!

Tom

Everyone has their own way of woodworking.Many paths lead down the
same road.It's just a matter of how many pubs there are on the
way.Hmmm,it IS the journey after all!
     The Littleton Millwork grind shop uses a 10"X2" grinding
arbor.Actually it has several wheels of varying configurations to handle
the many different custom knives.And probably has tapered bronze
bushings that are adjustable.
     The old farm rigs did use sandstone.Probably because it was a fast
cutting rock that was easy to make and ship.But sandstone was also used
to cut hard gemstones like agate.(ALWAYS GRIND ANYTHING USING A GOOD
MASK.DUST MASKS ARE OK BUT I'D USE SOMETHING A BIT MORE STURDY.ALWAYS
WORK METAL AND STONE WET.)Six chest tubes plus some surgery...aww now
Ah'm preach'in!
     In a hill town in Germany,Idar Oberstien 2 families would go in
together on a wheel haus.This arrangement was a waterwheel that drove a
shaft with 2 huge sandstone wheels.These wheels had their own houses
built around them.The shop and it's wheel (8')cut and polished gem
stones for century's.They had to use them lying down on a pallet in
front of the wheel.
     In my own shop,I do pay attention to angles of irons,chisels,drills
etc.But I concentrate more on the finish of the micro-bevel.Rather then
having 2 sets of cutting tools for tough and soft wood,I take a middle
road approach for all my cutting angles.And I do put a micro-bevel on
everything including my lathe and mill tools.
     I will set my plane iron bevel up a click for finishing the edge.It
takes about 3 swipes on the fine India stone before honing and
buffing.You don't need any more then this.The real secret is what the
backside of your tool looks like.If you put a clean bright finish on the
back of chisels and irons,they are much easier to put an edge on.
     I can quickly polish anything to spec or razor sharpness using
something called a lap.You can build one that serves the purpose of
sharpening if you have a drill press.Just cut some plywood discs 8"in
dia.Mount them on a sanding disc arbor for a hand drill.Make up 3 for
finish work,#220,#600,and one for polishing,a leather face(rouge or
50,000 diamond paste).By using the 'backside' of the tool rather then
the face,you can convert the tool to act as a slow-grind lap in the
chuck of the press.Cut a hole in the paper,and mount it on the disc
using some PSA.Do the same with the leather.
     Once you got them made,put the drill press in 'grandma' and try your
hand at finish lapping.If you cannot put a mirror finish on your
tools,or at least see a vast difference in finish,I'll be very
surprised.It's the oldest trick in the book.The cost is low,and you'll
soon find many uses for this rig.
     regards, Ron

Wow, what a nice job. That is worth putting the time into!

Gary
Seekonk, MA

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard OConnor" <r_oconnor@...>
To: <oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 5:01 AM
Subject: [oldwwmachines] Tim's yellow planer


> Tim,
>
> That planer you just posted must really brighten up your shop!   Your
> infeed roller experience sounds like more than a few frustrating
> moments.  Very neat job on the restoration, even if yellow isn't my
> own first choice.
>
> http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=3057
>
> Rich
>
>
>
>
>
> To access the group's archive without those pesky pop-ups, go to:
> http://discussion.oldwwmachines.com
>
> If you'd like to visit our Web page go to:
> http://www.owwm.com And as always, stay vigilant...
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 7/28/2005
>
>

Ron:

Thanks.  However, I plan to be out of town again - from 08/03/05 until 08/08/05.
But just send 'em when you can, and I'll get 'em entered.

Jeff McVey

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: oliverarn<mailto:rcurry1@...>
   To: oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com<mailto:oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com>
   Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 11:13 PM
   Subject: [oldwwmachines] Re: Oliver vs. Crescent


   --- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com<mailto:oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com>,
"Jeff McVey" <jmcvey123@m<mailto:jmcvey123@m>...>
   wrote:
   > I just posted the 250th entry in the Oliver registry, so Oliver has
   > passed Crescent in the number of entries.  If we include Joe
   Oliver's
   > other two companies (American Machinery Co. and Grand Rapids
   Machinery
   > Co.), the total comes to 287.  I've still got about a dozen more to
   > post, too.
   >
   > Jeff McVey

   Jeff Sometime this week i will try to get my Olivers numbers to ya. So
   that will give you about 12 More to add.
   Ron




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sounds like something I should have done. End result is, I tried the grinder
as it was, and wasn't very happy with the quality of the "finish". In result
is, I like to do my plane irons and chisels on the idler drum of the belt
sander. It works great and never overheats the edge. I do square them up in
the surface grinder though, and grind till the "flat" is gone. I've never
had trouble. I use hard Arkansas stones and then a leather strop on a wood
paddle. That stop has extremely fine diamond paste in it. I get a mirror
edge.

I have always wanted to build some kind of grinder system to hollow grind up
to 24" planer knives. Never did, but just might someday. It would be nice to
have that grinder right now, I have 2 sets each of 16" jointer knives and
20" planer knives...


Cheers,
Gary, Seekonk.


----- Original Message -----
From: "ssonerai" <ehmcofab@...>
To: <oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 2:42 PM
Subject: [oldwwmachines] Re: big wheels and RAS


> Gary, when they sold out the old folks estate just up the hill from
> us, one of the items in the basement tag sale was a 24" x 2-1/2"
> wide (originally) pedal grinder that the old man had motorized.  For
> $5 I took it home out of curiosity.   Made up a dresser out of a
> cross slide vise clamped to the grinder rail, with a diamond clamped
> in the vise.  It took a while, but got it dead true and straight
> across.
>
> It was "interesting" as a chisel and plane iron shaper/sharpener.
> But it was somewhat slow.  And it did not really give a good hollow
> grind at that radius.  I was disappointed.  When you went to hone
> one, it was almost flat, really.  I prefer a hollow grind for
> chisels and plane irons about like made on a wheel between 8" and
> 10" diameter.
>
> I did like to use the wheel (it is a wet wheel) for shaping the cap
> irons for the planes i make.  For some reason the rate of cut, width
> of wheel, and silky smooth feel was just right for finishing the top
> surface and around the rounded bevel aafter they are bent.  But then
> one day about a year ago, the wheel spun on the shaft, and of course
> is now out of true, plus it won't drive with out some investment of
> time and effort.  So it sets along the wall, and I use a burr-king 6
> x 60" wet belt sander instead...
>
> BTW, if you mess with any of the old wheels, they are sandstone, and
> silicosis is a serious thing.  Wear adequate respiratory protection.
>
> smt
>
> --- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "GHP" <gary@g...> wrote:
> > Funny, I bought an old treadle grinder some years ago, figuring I
> would use
> > it to sharpen. I never had the patience to get the stone round.
> I'm sure it
> > would work well though...
> >
> > I feel as though all planer knives, chisels and plane irons should
> be hollow
> > ground...a technique that seems to have somewhat disappeared the
> last 20
> > years or so.
> >
> >
> > Gary
> > Seekonk, MA
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ina Ron Lippard Renaissance Reproductions" <renrepro@s...>
> > To: "old wwm" <oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 7:40 AM
> > Subject: [oldwwmachines] big wheels and RAS
> >
> >
> > >
> > >     When I was teaching night school machine shop,we were
> cleaning out
> > > some old equipment lockers.One contained an aircraft grade
> centerless
> > > grinding wheel of 20".It had a 3" center hole and was 2" thick.I
> built
> > > it into a slow grind wheel.A gear head motor running about 20
> RPM and a
> > > drip can puts a #80 grit find finish on anything.The huge wheel
> is
> > > perfect for the supreme 'hollow-grind' anything.
> > >     That Porter Cable RAS casting I re-built would be most
> welcome in my
> > > shop today.The 3"X3'CRS ram had zero flex.The casting itself
> weighed in
> > > over 100 lbs.(excluding ram)It ran on 6 ball bearing races.With
> a 4"
> > > column I daresay it could support a 12" blade.Yeah,I'd take a
> 12" 'rad'
> > > circa 1955 in a NY minute.
> > >     Meantime,look for those old large wheels.A simple carriage
> that
> > > holds them hanging off the bench and a foot-powered system will
> give you
> > > the finish no other system ever could.The real artist of the
> edge will
> > > of course get up a wooden wheel with a leather 'tire' on the
> same arbor
> > > for stropping.A bicycle wheel w/tire is just as good.Just add
> tripoli.A
> > > wide flat bike wheel/ tire may serve as a cheap substitute for
> the
> > > grinder if you goo it up with some feather-disc adhesive and a
> long
> > > strip of abrasive cloth.
> > >     If you think about what you really need,silly things like
> like
> > > converting an old exercise bike into a pedal grinder/honer is
> not such a
> > > bad deal.For $20 you can get all the parts you need to make a
> rig you
> > > sit at and pedal while putting a real edge on cutting
> tools...and lose
> > > some of that beer you drank last nite!
> > >     regards, Merlin
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To access the group's archive without those pesky pop-ups, go to:
> > > http://discussion.oldwwmachines.com
> > >
> > > If you'd like to visit our Web page go to:
> > > http://www.owwm.com And as always, stay vigilant...
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> > > Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date:
> 7/28/2005
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
>
> To access the group's archive without those pesky pop-ups, go to:
> http://discussion.oldwwmachines.com
>
> If you'd like to visit our Web page go to:
> http://www.owwm.com And as always, stay vigilant...
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 7/28/2005
>
>

That link I provided doesn't seem to work. I added some pics in the
photo section in a new album.

Thanks!

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "william_orbit"
<william_orbit@y...> wrote:
> Greetings folks!
>
> I'm a newbie to old woodworking machines and a few woodworkers over
> on Woodnet steered me in your direction.
> The reason I'm posting is an old Delta/Milwaukee bandsaw I picked
up
> over the weekend. I'm not sure if I can post pics here so I'll
> provide a link to the pics on the thread I started on Woodnet.
>
> http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?
> Cat=&Number=1765826&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=
>
> From the info I've got I believe it's a 1953 model. Serial # AO
4158.
> Manufactured after they moved production to the Tupelo plant.
>
> I'm thinking about disassembling it and sand/beadblasting then re-
> painting the frame. Also I want to upgrade the motor (1 or 1/2? hp)
> and I need a few parts. The belt guard being the biggest that I've
> seen so far.
>
> Any tips/hints/advice/resources would be greatly appreciated. I've
> never tried to rebuild an old machine like this and I'm excited to
> get moving. I've got a copy of the Iturra catalog. It looks like it
> could be very easy to spend ALOT of money doing this! I'd also like
> to get a copy of the original manual if possible.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide. It's nice to see a forum
> dedicated to old iron!
>
> Tom

And the name of the album would help. :)

Delta Milwaukee 14 inch Bandsaw

Bear with me, I'll get the hang of this eventually.

Tom

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "william_orbit"
<william_orbit@y...> wrote:
> That link I provided doesn't seem to work. I added some pics in the
> photo section in a new album.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "william_orbit"
> <william_orbit@y...> wrote:
> > Greetings folks!
> >
> > I'm a newbie to old woodworking machines and a few woodworkers
over
> > on Woodnet steered me in your direction.
> > The reason I'm posting is an old Delta/Milwaukee bandsaw I picked
> up
> > over the weekend. I'm not sure if I can post pics here so I'll
> > provide a link to the pics on the thread I started on Woodnet.
> >
> > http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?
> > Cat=&Number=1765826&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=
> >
> > From the info I've got I believe it's a 1953 model. Serial # AO
> 4158.
> > Manufactured after they moved production to the Tupelo plant.
> >
> > I'm thinking about disassembling it and sand/beadblasting then re-
> > painting the frame. Also I want to upgrade the motor (1 or 1/2?
hp)
> > and I need a few parts. The belt guard being the biggest that
I've
> > seen so far.
> >
> > Any tips/hints/advice/resources would be greatly appreciated.
I've
> > never tried to rebuild an old machine like this and I'm excited
to
> > get moving. I've got a copy of the Iturra catalog. It looks like
it
> > could be very easy to spend ALOT of money doing this! I'd also
like
> > to get a copy of the original manual if possible.
> >
> > Thanks for any help you can provide. It's nice to see a forum
> > dedicated to old iron!
> >
> > Tom

Nice old bandsaw.  There's an article on OWWM.com on tune=up using that
saw.  Good luck on the belt guard.  Those are scarce since they were an
option and woodworkers are not known for being real spendy for options.

I recommend that you fabricate a ramp for sawdust to keep the motor
somewhat clean.  It makes a difference on this model with that open
stand.

Bob Vaughan
Roanoke VA


On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 06:26 AM, william_orbit wrote:

> Greetings folks!
>
> I'm a newbie to old woodworking machines and a few woodworkers over
> on Woodnet steered me in your direction.
> The reason I'm posting is an old Delta/Milwaukee bandsaw I picked up
> over the weekend. I'm not sure if I can post pics here so I'll
> provide a link to the pics on the thread I started on Woodnet.
>
> http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?
> Cat=&Number=1765826&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=
>
> From the info I've got I believe it's a 1953 model. Serial # AO 4158.
> Manufactured after they moved production to the Tupelo plant.
>
> I'm thinking about disassembling it and sand/beadblasting then re-
> painting the frame. Also I want to upgrade the motor (1 or 1/2? hp)
> and I need a few parts. The belt guard being the biggest that I've
> seen so far.
>
> Any tips/hints/advice/resources would be greatly appreciated. I've
> never tried to rebuild an old machine like this and I'm excited to
> get moving. I've got a copy of the Iturra catalog. It looks like it
> could be very easy to spend ALOT of money doing this! I'd also like
> to get a copy of the original manual if possible.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide. It's nice to see a forum
> dedicated to old iron!
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
> To access the group's archive without those pesky pop-ups, go to:
> http://discussion.oldwwmachines.com
>
> If you'd like to visit our Web page go to:
> http://www.owwm.com And as always, stay vigilant...
>
>
>
>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

anyone out there know if those goose egg covers that keep
poping up on ebay/here will fit a General ( Canadian )350
10 inch table saw, can anyone put up a close up of how the hinges are
mounted to the saw.
General used to make the Unisaw for delta in the 60' till they went out
on there own, the two saws Gen 350 and the Unisaw are almost identical
in the body of the saw and the table tops , the only difference I can
see is that the general internal castings are a lot thicker and heavier
other than that there is much difference, just another 100 lbs of metal
  As everyone nows dust collection without some kind of motor cover
is the shits , unless you suck it right off the bottom of the blade.
I see that someone has gone to the trouble of getting a casting made
for this and has made a few, anyone ever thought of casting this part
to be made of fibre glass so that the cost can be brought down quite a
bit
HUTCH

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "william_orbit"
<william_orbit@y...> wrote:
> Greetings folks!
>
> I'm a newbie to old woodworking machines and a few woodworkers
over
> on Woodnet steered me in your direction.
> The reason I'm posting is an old Delta/Milwaukee bandsaw I picked
up
> over the weekend. I'm not sure if I can post pics here so I'll
> provide a link to the pics on the thread I started on Woodnet.
>
> http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?
> Cat=&Number=1765826&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=
>
> From the info I've got I believe it's a 1953 model. Serial # AO
4158.
> Manufactured after they moved production to the Tupelo plant.
>
> I'm thinking about disassembling it and sand/beadblasting then re-
> painting the frame. Also I want to upgrade the motor (1 or 1/2?
hp)
> and I need a few parts. The belt guard being the biggest that I've
> seen so far.
>
> Any tips/hints/advice/resources would be greatly appreciated. I've
> never tried to rebuild an old machine like this and I'm excited to
> get moving. I've got a copy of the Iturra catalog. It looks like
it
> could be very easy to spend ALOT of money doing this! I'd also
like
> to get a copy of the original manual if possible.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide. It's nice to see a forum
> dedicated to old iron!
>
> Tom

Nice find.  I replied over on WoodNet for you, but I've got parts
for those saws including motors and belt guards.  As for
sandblasting and painting it.  I don't have much luck blasting
sheetmetal and repainting.

The metal still telegraphs through and it never seams as smooth.  I
have better luck sanding/puttying like in the auto body field and
repainting.  Of course your mileage may vary.

Chris

General makes a new model of motor cover but 5 sided square
and mounts real high and would get in the way of outfeed
table set up, and at about $250 CDN its not worth that much to me
always looking for a cheap solution

hope the previous message will not affend
those DELTA POLICE that didn't like the
serial number switch that happened about a couple of months ago
LOL
HUTCH

looking for any info, manuals on this manufacturer before the WW2
as they sold off their woodworking line of machinery shortly after the
war, specifically the No.315,No.273,No.306 or the complete line of
machinery, any help out there would be gggggggggreat
HUTCH

Anyone out there got any manuals on this manufacturer
specific the 24" disk Sander
any help would be gggggreat
HUTCH

From: "Thom Houser" <Thom@...>
> Perhaps it's usefulness was so limited that there were
> only 11 made which is why they are so rare. They do look Kewl though
> and I could see one hanging on my wall even if only to collect saw
> dust.

So, that's Thom who not only uses, but collects tools?  ;-)

I agree with Thom though.  I really don't see much use for this thing in my
wooddorking.  If I need to make an arc, whether it be 100-inch or 100-foot,
I miter the boards and join them first.  Then swing the arc with a heavy
1/2" router mounted to a plywood compass arm.  I've never had this not come
out beautifully [1].  Smaller arcs I can do real fast with a circle-cutting
jig on the bandsaw, to be cleaned up with a final pass from the router if
necessary, although the bandsaw is limited to OD cuts for full circles
unless you want to cut/weld a blade each time.

If $$ were no object, it would be nice to have one to go with that Oliver
saw in the shop.  It might even see some use from time to time, but I'm
likely to keep cutting arcs the way I always have... with a router.

Rick

[1] - Except on those RARE [2] occasions when you subtract the bit radius
instead of adding it, or vice versa.

[2] - Okay, maybe not THAT rare.

Nice saw, Accessories alone (light and fence) are worth 150 at e-bay prices.

Seattle Dan

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, Ray Muno <muno@a...> wrote:
> Ray Muno wrote:
> > Rick Antrobus wrote:
> >
> >>From: "millforge" <artshaw@k...>
> >>
> >>>Thanx Rick, I think we've identified the problem. Now to fix it.
How
> >>>should they be wired for 110v?
> >>
> >>
> >>That's where it can get a little tricky, since any standard cap
start
> >>induction motor actually has 8 leads, and four of yours are
terminated
> >>internally.  Most often, I see either three wires brought to the
outside, or
> >>three large wires plus one small wire, which is part of the start
circuit.
> >>Here, since you haven't said otherwise, I'm assuming you're
looking at two
> >>identical leads.
> >
> >
> > I think the original post identified it as a Repulsion-Induction
(RI)
> > motor.
> >
> > "It is a Delta Milwaukee model 1248 with Leyland RI, 1725 rpm,
1/3 hp
> > 110/220 motor."
> >
> > -Ray Muno
>
> If it is an RI motor, there is no start winding and no capacitors.
The
> rotor is a wound rotor and there are brushes that short out the
> commutator.  The commutator does not connect to the supply wires at
all.
>   This is what replaces the function of the starting winding, it
starts
> as a Repulsion motor.  Dig in to the archives, this has been beaten
to
> death more than once.
>
> Being dual voltage, it would make sense to have 4 wires, 2 for each
> winding set. As with other dual voltage motors, they either get
hooked
> up in parallel (110V) or series (220V).
>
> -Ray Muno

Thank you Rick, Ray, Richard and Dan for your input to my plight. I
didn't mean to drop out of the discussion like that, but I haven't
been able to get on the discussion forum to reply. This morning it
works again.
I get the idea that the 2 motor leads that are Marred together (as in
a Marr connector) should be fed from the incoming power leads to make
it run on 110v. I presume that it is critical which one goes on black
and which on white. Can someone tell me how to distinguish which
motor lead should go on which power lead, or does it not matter??
Thanx again.

Art

"Any tips/hints/advice/resources would be greatly appreciated"

Tom
It looks like you have way to much room in the garage taken up by non-old
arn. Get rid of the stroller, the kiddie car, and the station wagon and you have
plenty of room for more old arn. It looks like you got a great looking bandsaw
at a decent price. Not quite a "Simmeth"
deal but a decent price anyway.
Gary Williams


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I was looking in the planer last night at the oil seal for the gear drive.
Still leaking.  In the process I turned the cutter head and what did I hear?
Bunch of noise for the motor side bearing... (not the motor bearing)

I just replaced these bearings last year I think.  I don't know what I did to
it to make it start to fail.  There doesn't seem to be any play, but I can
definitly hear noise.

There's another $100-$125 out the door.

Bob V, didn't you day that you would put two oil seals in the gear drive?

Great looking planer.

Gary Williams


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, gcw804@a... wrote:
> "Any tips/hints/advice/resources would be greatly appreciated"
>
> Tom
> It looks like you have way to much room in the garage taken up by
non-old
> arn. Get rid of the stroller, the kiddie car, and the station wagon
and you have
> plenty of room for more old arn. It looks like you got a great
looking bandsaw
> at a decent price. Not quite a "Simmeth"
> deal but a decent price anyway.
> Gary Williams
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Gary, I'm hoping the clutter will force my wife to realize we need to
move out to the country. Preferably to a house with a 20' X 40'
shop. :) And if this old machinery bug I've got stays, I plan to use
the new tools to finance the old ones when the opportunity presents
itself...

20' X 40" is only for the first year
might as well start big 32' X 48" to start then add 10' every year

> ----------
> From:  oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Tom
> Reply To:  oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com
> Gary, I'm hoping the clutter will force my wife to realize we need to
> move out to the country. Preferably to a house with a 20' X 40'
> shop. :)
>
>
>
>
> To access the group's archive without those pesky pop-ups, go to:
> http://discussion.oldwwmachines.com
>
> If you'd like to visit our Web page go to:
> http://www.owwm.com And as always, stay vigilant...
>
>
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>
> *  Visit your group "oldwwmachines" on the web.
> *
> *  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> *  oldwwmachines-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> *
> *  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>   _____
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

looking for worm gear parts for another Wysong & Miles
306 Osc/Non osc spindle sander, speciffically internal worn
gears , made of brass
HUTCH

From: "millforge" <artshaw@...>
> I get the idea that the 2 motor leads that are Marred together (as in
> a Marr connector) should be fed from the incoming power leads to make
> it run on 110v.

Careful there!  I'm not sure what you said is what you meant.  Right now,
you have the windings in series, as in incoming power leg 1 to lead 1, lead
3 to lead 2, and lead 4 to incoming power leg 2.  If you want to run it on
110V, you want to have incoming power leg 1 connected to leads 1 and 3, and
incoming power leg 2 to leads 2 and 4.

> I presume that it is critical which one goes on black
> and which on white.

The incoming power is AC, so polarity of incoming power does not matter.

> Can someone tell me how to distinguish which
> motor lead should go on which power lead, or does it not matter??

It does matter.  Disconnect the incoming power leads and those two "married"
motor leads, so that you're looking at four separate motor leads.  Grab
yourself an ohmmeter, and measure resistance from each lead to each other
lead.  What you'll find is that each lead is wired to one of the other three
leads, such that they're in pairs.  For 110V operation, you want to connect
one lead from each pair to the incoming black (hot) wire, and one lead from
each pair to the incoming white (common) wire.

Of course, if it were my grinder, I'd leave the wiring alone and just plug
it into a 220V receptacle (with the proper NEMA 6-15 plug, of course).

Rick

looking for help in locating the end pully for
a Wysong & miles No. 315 Non Osc Side Sander
anyone out there with a parts machine,
also looking for a metal platten and cast table
HUTCH

Any clues on how to remove the disk off a Master Kindt Collins
24" Disk Sander
HUTCH

I've been told to use a 80 weight oil, such as one would use in a Air
Compressor, but I'm getting tired of cleaning the side of the machine
which is a Bentel & Margedant 12 Universal woodworker
HUTCH

Did anyone pick up that Bentel & Margedant Drawer Bottom sander
that was offered on IRS Auction last week out of MI
It went for a very sad $60
If so would really like to see better picture than the
ones i snagged of the IRS site
HUTCH

I just changed over to using way oil.  I used the jointer for a while
yesterday and the bearings didn't get too hot nor did it throw the oil all
over.  Way oil is sticky so it tends to stay put.

I got mine from McMaster.


On Mon, 01 Aug 2005 16:13:19 -0000, soula987 wrote
> I've been told to use a 80 weight oil, such as one would use in a
> Air Compressor, but I'm getting tired of cleaning the side of the machine
> which is a Bentel & Margedant 12 Universal woodworker
> HUTCH
>
>
> To access the group's archive without those pesky pop-ups, go to:
> http://discussion.oldwwmachines.com
>
> If you'd like to visit our Web page go to:
> http://www.owwm.com And as always, stay vigilant...
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "Richard OConnor"
<r_oconnor@a...> wrote:
> Tim,
>
> That planer you just posted must really brighten up your shop!
Your
> infeed roller experience sounds like more than a few frustrating
> moments.  Very neat job on the restoration, even if yellow isn't
my
> own first choice.
>
> http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=3057
>
> Rich
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The more I look at it, the more I like it.  I've never liked PM's
stock goldyellowbabypoopwhatever color.  In fact, there are those
who believe that PM's descent from prominence into WMHell was not
the result of changing values in society and international
influences, but was instead due to their poor choice of paint colors.

Very nice restoration!