--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "Richard OConnor"
<r_oconnor@a...> wrote:
> Tim,
>
> That planer you just posted must really brighten up your shop!
Your
> infeed roller experience sounds like more than a few frustrating
> moments.  Very neat job on the restoration, even if yellow isn't
my
> own first choice.
>
> http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=3057
>
> Rich
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The more I look at it, the more I like it.  I've never liked PM's
stock goldyellowbabypoopwhatever color.  In fact, there are those
who believe that PM's descent from prominence into WMHell was not
the result of changing values in society and international
influences, but was instead due to their poor choice of paint colors.

Very nice restoration!

Tom
If you wind up like the rest of us, 20 x 40 won't be big enough, you will be
want a 50 x 100 or some such building. Some of the guys on the list buy
equipment to have and others buy it to actually use it. I fall somewhere in the
middle.  Good luck with your new endeavor.
Is it Bill or Tom?

Gary


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Indeed, I presses two seals in there instead of one because of the very
reason you're experiencing.  Because of the depth of the casting hole
on the one I had, I think I could have gotten three seals pressed in
there.

Hope that bearing noise isn't a worn cutterhead bearing seat.  Take off
the drive belts and test the up and down slop.

Bob Vaughan
Roanoke VA


On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 11:34 AM, mphee wrote:

> I was looking in the planer last night at the oil seal for the gear
> drive.
> Still leaking.  In the process I turned the cutter head and what did I
> hear?
> Bunch of noise for the motor side bearing... (not the motor bearing)
>
> I just replaced these bearings last year I think.  I don't know what I
> did to
> it to make it start to fail.  There doesn't seem to be any play, but I
> can
> definitly hear noise.
>
> There's another $100-$125 out the door.
>
> Bob V, didn't you day that you would put two oil seals in the gear
> drive?
>
>
>
>
> To access the group's archive without those pesky pop-ups, go to:
> http://discussion.oldwwmachines.com
>
> If you'd like to visit our Web page go to:
> http://www.owwm.com And as always, stay vigilant...
>
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
<image.tiff>
>
>
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>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> +  Visit your group "oldwwmachines" on the web.
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>  
> +  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
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>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

That 10 foot a year is conservative.  I was told a man needs 12 feet a
year on his shop building when I started building my 24x40.  2 stories
is cheaper and you have plenty of outside wall to run a shed roof from.
   It will allow you to keep your fork lift out of the rain.

Bob Vaughan
Roanoke VA


On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 11:56 AM, Carmona, Al wrote:

> 20' X 40" is only for the first year
> might as well start big 32' X 48" to start then add 10' every year
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've seen previous posts regarding cacked trunion supports moving a
Unisaw with the motor attached. I realize the assembly would be lighter
without the motor, but is there any undue stress on the trunion
support ?

Mike

I have an older Unisaw with a bullet style 1.5h 3 phase motor.There is
no motor plate, so I was wondering if it can run on 440 volt,
currently I am runningit on 220 volt off or my rotary phase converter,
but would like to run it on 440 along with my WalkerTurner RAS. This
would eliminate my need for a transformer.

If the motor can run on 440 volt what would be the wiring sequence.
Thanks
Chad

> From: "Ray Muno" <muno@...>
> Boy, time to send an Oliver quadrant guage over to Cattail.

Good news for those following the Oliver quadrant gauge thread.  The
original "splitting fence" (aka rip fence) and quadrant gauge for Oliver
Universal Saw Bench #432 are now safely in my hands.

There are a few small differences between this quadrant gauge and the one
shown on p.11 of the 1906 catalog B.  This could mean that our initial
estimate of 1906 for a DOB on my saw is a little off, or -- more likely --
that some of the artwork in the 1906 catalog is reused from some older
publication... no surprise there, given the cost of producing those detailed
plates in 1906.

As the usual Oliver cronies (TM) already know, the original cast iron face
and tilt mechanism on splitting fence have been replaced by a wood assembly.
I'll be looking to have replicas made up for those components, so if any of
you lurkers out there have an original, I'd be very interested in discussing
this.

I uploaded the pics to the mothership, partly because someone might want to
reference them at some future point, but mostly because we've hit our quota
over at Yahoo! Groups.  It may be time to clear some old stuff out over
there.

http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?ID=3058

Hopefully this will prod T.J. along to find the original components for his
saw as well!

Rick

I just checked.  I don't see any movement.

Do you have any other sources for that bearing?  I called accurate and
they couldn't find the bearing.

It's an 88510 with a snap lock.  Mine has JAF as the mfg.

Robert Vaughan wrote:

>Indeed, I presses two seals in there instead of one because of the very
>reason you're experiencing.  Because of the depth of the casting hole
>on the one I had, I think I could have gotten three seals pressed in
>there.
>
>Hope that bearing noise isn't a worn cutterhead bearing seat.  Take off
>the drive belts and test the up and down slop.
>
>Bob Vaughan
>Roanoke VA
>
>
>On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 11:34 AM, mphee wrote:
>
>
>
>>I was looking in the planer last night at the oil seal for the gear
>>drive.
>>Still leaking.  In the process I turned the cutter head and what did I
>>hear?
>>Bunch of noise for the motor side bearing... (not the motor bearing)
>>
>>I just replaced these bearings last year I think.  I don't know what I
>>did to
>>it to make it start to fail.  There doesn't seem to be any play, but I
>>can
>>definitly hear noise.
>>
>>There's another $100-$125 out the door.
>>
>>Bob V, didn't you day that you would put two oil seals in the gear
>>drive?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To access the group's archive without those pesky pop-ups, go to:
>>http://discussion.oldwwmachines.com
>>
>>If you'd like to visit our Web page go to:
>>http://www.owwm.com And as always, stay vigilant...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

I would have guessed that accurate would have had it or could get it.
JAF is a brand they use.  Next, I would try Motion Industries, but they
will be a little more pricy.

If the bearing seat is bad on the cutterhead, you won't see movement,
but you'll be able to feel the little bump-bump as you move the pulley
up and down.

Bob Vaughan
Roanoke VA



On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 04:00 PM, Marty Phee wrote:

> I just checked.  I don't see any movement.
>
> Do you have any other sources for that bearing?  I called accurate and
> they couldn't find the bearing.
>
> It's an 88510 with a snap lock.  Mine has JAF as the mfg.
>
> Robert Vaughan wrote:


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I didn't give Accurate the mfg.  I call them back and try again.

I put a dial indicator on the head and didn't see nor feel any movement.


Robert Vaughan wrote:

>I would have guessed that accurate would have had it or could get it.
>JAF is a brand they use.  Next, I would try Motion Industries, but they
>will be a little more pricy.
>
>If the bearing seat is bad on the cutterhead, you won't see movement,
>but you'll be able to feel the little bump-bump as you move the pulley
>up and down.
>
>Bob Vaughan
>Roanoke VA
>
>
>
>On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 04:00 PM, Marty Phee wrote:
>
>
>
>>I just checked.  I don't see any movement.
>>
>>Do you have any other sources for that bearing?  I called accurate and
>>they couldn't find the bearing.
>>
>>It's an 88510 with a snap lock.  Mine has JAF as the mfg.
>>
>>Robert Vaughan wrote:
>>
>>
>
>
>

As a guy who's new to the whole HVLP spraying thing, I'm wondering how you
guys handle the logistics of repainting OWWM.  Here's the scenario:

Once you put the paint in the gun, there's only a finite amount of working
time, so it would seem that putting one component in the make-shift paint
booth, painting it, letting it dry for a few hours, and then swapping it out
for the next component won't work.  You need to somehow set everything up
and shoot it at the same time, however several of the components are very
large (RAS table, RAS legs, arm, column), and could be difficult to set up
or maneuver around in a paint booth all at the same time.  Also, you always
have the problem of overspray if everything's set up next to each other.

The thought of priming just a few components each day, taking the gun apart
and cleaning it out between each batch, doesn't sound very fun, especially
considering that the whole process will need to be repeated for primer coat
#2 (assuming you're using filler on the castings) and paint coats #1 and #2.
So, how do you get all of a particular coat done in one day?

Thanks,
Rick

Motion industries doesn't believe me that it's an 88510...

EB Atmus has it in stock.  I might go with them.


Robert Vaughan wrote:

>I would have guessed that accurate would have had it or could get it.
>JAF is a brand they use.  Next, I would try Motion Industries, but they
>will be a little more pricy.
>
>If the bearing seat is bad on the cutterhead, you won't see movement,
>but you'll be able to feel the little bump-bump as you move the pulley
>up and down.
>
>Bob Vaughan
>Roanoke VA
>
>
>
>On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 04:00 PM, Marty Phee wrote:
>
>
>
>>I just checked.  I don't see any movement.
>>
>>Do you have any other sources for that bearing?  I called accurate and
>>they couldn't find the bearing.
>>
>>It's an 88510 with a snap lock.  Mine has JAF as the mfg.
>>
>>Robert Vaughan wrote:
>>
>>
>
>
>
>

Mike, others may have more experience but I moved mine upright with the
table removed and had the lock knobs locked tight and had no problems.
Bob V. has moved them table down (updside down)in a minivan.  I don't
believe he said for sure but I assume the adjustments were locked as
well.
Jeff D in St L

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "Marty Swindall"
<maswindell@y...> wrote:
> I've seen previous posts regarding cacked trunion supports moving a
> Unisaw with the motor attached. I realize the assembly would be
lighter
> without the motor, but is there any undue stress on the trunion
> support ?
>
> Mike

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "soula987" <dakota@m...> wrote:


> I see that someone has gone to the trouble of getting a casting made
> for this and has made a few, anyone ever thought of casting this part
> to be made of fibre glass so that the cost can be brought down quite a
> bit
> HUTCH


Since you are willing to perhaps use a fiberglass cover or other
substitution, look in the photos section, last image, "Unisaw Motor
Cover" to see what we did with sheet metal and a welder.  This image
shows the cover substitution for the goose egg, and the sheet metal
fab at the bottom for the dust pickup.

Note that our cover includes a homemade clone of a vent a la Weber
Barbeque grill.  For ordinary work this is mostly closed to pull
maximum air from the blade opening.  For zero insert close work, we
open it up or else there is not enough air moving to transprt dust and
shavings.  A cheap and interesting feature.

Ours is not an 'authentic' goose egg restoration, but somewhere along
the line the saw motor was replaced and it is a larger frame - so an
original goose egg copy would not fit anyway.

The sawdust will build up in drifts in the base of the saw (mostly the
cabinet corners), but it is a self regulating feature.  The drift
assumes aerodynamic shape, and as soon as the buildup begins to
obstruct the opening on the side it is swept away.

Bob Kutella

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "soula987" <dakota@m...> wrote:
> I've been told to use a 80 weight oil, such as one would use in a Air
> Compressor, but I'm getting tired of cleaning the side of the machine
> which is a Bentel & Margedant 12 Universal woodworker
> HUTCH

This has probably been beat to death on this forum, and not too long
ago there was such a thread with many answers and suggestions.  I bet
the search feature will turn up some messages for you.

There may be no right answer.  At our Museum we use a SHELL product
designed for railway babbit lined journal bearings since we have it
available in bulk.  But it is not readily available in smaller
quantities.  So lots of substitutions are made by OWWMers desperate to
lubricate this common bearing (common on owwm anyway).  You get good
flow and lubrication with thinner flowing material but it can be a
nuisance to keep clean and under control.  Thicker, sticky products
solve that problem, and are probably fine for occasional hobby use.
But I wonder if they would provide the optimum flow, coating, and
lubrication in a production environment with hours of use.

Some of the babbit bearings on our machines are indeed worn and
'loose' so we oil 'em a lot, and put a drip pan or catcher on the
worst offenders.  A small price to pay to prolong the life of a machine.

Take your choice and watch the bearings for heating.

Bob Kutella

I have several roll-around floor floats and carts I use for this
purpose.  I put several components on a cart, shoot, move out, move
another in, shoot, and so on. I don't use a spray booth, but do use a
spray area.  After the componets are dry to the touch, I turn them
over, block them up, and hit the areas missed earlier.  I shoot
semi-exposed first so when I turn the components over, they will rest
on blocking in an area not as noticeable.  The blocking often mars the
paint.

Bob Vaughan
Roanoke VA


On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 05:02 PM, Rick Antrobus wrote:

> As a guy who's new to the whole HVLP spraying thing, I'm wondering how
> you
> guys handle the logistics of repainting OWWM.  Here's the scenario:
>
> Once you put the paint in the gun, there's only a finite amount of
> working
> time, so it would seem that putting one component in the make-shift
> paint
> booth, painting it, letting it dry for a few hours, and then swapping
> it out
> for the next component won't work.  You need to somehow set everything
> up
> and shoot it at the same time, however several of the components are
> very
> large (RAS table, RAS legs, arm, column), and could be difficult to
> set up
> or maneuver around in a paint booth all at the same time.  Also, you
> always
> have the problem of overspray if everything's set up next to each
> other.
>
> The thought of priming just a few components each day, taking the gun
> apart
> and cleaning it out between each batch, doesn't sound very fun,
> especially
> considering that the whole process will need to be repeated for primer
> coat
> #2 (assuming you're using filler on the castings) and paint coats #1
> and #2.
> So, how do you get all of a particular coat done in one day?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
>
>
>
>
> To access the group's archive without those pesky pop-ups, go to:
> http://discussion.oldwwmachines.com
>
> If you'd like to visit our Web page go to:
> http://www.owwm.com And as always, stay vigilant...
>
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
<image.tiff>
>
>
<image.tiff>
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> +  Visit your group "oldwwmachines" on the web.
>  
> +  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  oldwwmachines-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>  
> +  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
<image.tiff>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

10-4 on the not being believed.  Been there.  Its an obsolete bearing
not offered buy most of motion's vendors.

Bob Vaughan
Roanoke VA

On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 05:03 PM, Marty Phee wrote:

> Motion industries doesn't believe me that it's an 88510...
>
> EB Atmus has it in stock.  I might go with them.
>
>
> Robert Vaughan wrote:
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Truth is, I never pay attention to the locking condition.  I've never
had a problem.  The only cracked casting I've run across was in a
school's shop where the saw in question was OEM with the school
(1960's)  In year 2000 it developed a crack.  From what, or why is
anybody's guess.  Nobody at the school is talking, that's for sure.

Bob Vaughan
Roanoke VA


On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 05:06 PM, nascarjeffd wrote:

> Mike, others may have more experience but I moved mine upright with the
> table removed and had the lock knobs locked tight and had no problems. 
> Bob V. has moved them table down (updside down)in a minivan.  I don't
> believe he said for sure but I assume the adjustments were locked as
> well.
> Jeff D in St L
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Antrobus" <yahoo@a...> wrote:
> As a guy who's new to the whole HVLP spraying thing, I'm wondering
how you
> guys handle the logistics of repainting OWWM.  Here's the scenario:
>
> Once you put the paint in the gun, there's only a finite amount of
working
> time,

A lot of parts simply do not get sprayed when we restore a machine.
But for those skilled in the art and willing to try for a "Smithsonian
finish"  I bet a lot of parts are sprayed at the same time - outdoors
or in a large garage.  Most of them can be spread out on tarps, or
hung by wires from a pipe rack, A frame, or some such appurtenance.
No it is not a spray booth, and you did not hear me advocate not using
one - - -

On the machines we have done, the quality of the castings just does
not merit trying for a mirror finish, and that might not have been
typical for a work-a-day machine used industrially.

Bob Kutella

From: "Robert Vaughan" <rmvaughan@...>
> I don't use a spray booth, but do use a spray area.

From: "Bob Kutella" <68trolley@...>
> No it is not a spray booth, and you did not hear me advocate not using
> one - - -

Heh... sorry for giving the wrong impression, guys.  When I said "make-shift
paint booth", I was referring to a bunch of plastic tarps hung from the
ceiling to quarter off an area of the shop and keep the overspray away from
the OWWM it wasn't intended for.  Maybe I'll even go "all-out" and add some
minimal amount of ventilation, although that certainly cuts down on the fun
factor [1].  ;-)

Rick

[1] Umm... just kidding.

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "soula987" <dakota@m...> wrote:
> Anyone out there got any manuals on this manufacturer
> specific the 24" disk Sander
> any help would be gggggreat
> HUTCH

Perhaps someone will turn up withthe manuals, of which I have none.  I
do have a number of Kindt-Collins catalogs that--I believe--show the
sander.

R. Bernstein

>I don't have much luck blasting sheet metal and repainting.  The metal
still telegraphs >through and it never seams as smooth.  I have better luck
sanding/puttying like in >the auto body field and repainting.  Of course
your mileage may vary.


The trick with sheet metal is plastic bead blasting.  It removes the paint
but does not abrade the underlying metal.

Keith Bohn

Bob Kutella
No it is not a spray booth, and you did not hear me advocate not using
one - - -




Maybe I'm a heathen but clean room and machinery painting are four words
never spoken together at the same time here.  Tarp down the garage and go at
it.  When you're done you can show all your friends the over spray on the
tarps and play "Identify The Part By It's Shadow".

Keith Bohn

Rick, You are using a 2 part finish which is why you have a time
concern? The Automotive 2 part that we use at times still has a 8 hour
use time after mixing and by using a pressure pot that is extended.
Use a lazy susan on the cart you are shooting on and then move to a
drying rack. Be creative. Of course YMMV.

T.Houser

Bob Kutella
No it is not a spray booth, and you did not hear me advocate not using
one - - -




Maybe I'm a heathen but clean room and machinery painting are four words
never spoken together at the same time here.  Tarp down the garage and go at
it.  When you're done you can show all your friends the over spray on the
tarps and play "Identify The Part By It's Shadow".

Keith Bohn

I just picked one of these up after looking for years.  Anyone have a serial
number list so I can see when it was made?

Also, I looked on the website for manuals and didn't see any.  Anyone use
one of these?  I looked and Forrest still makes an 8" blade so that isn't a
problem.

I haven't even cleaned off the dirt but it has a very old Craftsman motor
but don't know what works and what doesn't, but for $20 I wasn't going to
pass it up.

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Antrobus" <yahoo@a...>
wrote:
> As a guy who's new to the whole HVLP spraying thing, I'm wondering
how you
> guys handle the logistics of repainting OWWM.  Here's the scenario:
>
> Once you put the paint in the gun, there's only a finite amount of
working
> time, so it would seem that putting one component in the make-
shift paint
> booth, painting it, letting it dry for a few hours, and then
swapping it out
> for the next component won't work.  You need to somehow set
everything up
> and shoot it at the same time, however several of the components
are very
> large (RAS table, RAS legs, arm, column), and could be difficult
to set up
> or maneuver around in a paint booth all at the same time.  Also,
you always
> have the problem of overspray if everything's set up next to each
other.
>
> The thought of priming just a few components each day, taking the
gun apart
> and cleaning it out between each batch, doesn't sound very fun,
especially
> considering that the whole process will need to be repeated for
primer coat
> #2 (assuming you're using filler on the castings) and paint coats
#1 and #2.
> So, how do you get all of a particular coat done in one day?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick

I'm a rattle can guy.

Rich
Silver Spring, MD

I am stuck down here for a week and am free during the day.  Wouldn't
mind checking out a shop in trade for a few beers!  Or, is there anyplace
worth checking out?

--- In oldwwmachines@yahoogroups.com, "Marty Swindall"
<maswindell@y...> wrote:
> I've seen previous posts regarding cacked trunion supports moving a
> Unisaw with the motor attached. I realize the assembly would be
lighter
> without the motor, but is there any undue stress on the trunion
> support ?
>
> Mike

I moved my 1965 Uni assembled, in the back of a pickup, alone.  Had
help loading it, but had to move everything around on the way home to
accommodate another piece of 'arn - ain't that always the way!
Decided to put the Uni on its head (table to reduce top-heaviness).
Turned out, it made it easier to unload - by myself.  just be careful
and use some common sense - these aren't Fabrege eggs.

Rich

Sandor N. lives there
Tell him I said Hello

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/ezine/archive/68/todaysww.cfm

Bob Vaughan
Roanoke VA


On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 07:26 PM, europeanrestoration wrote:

> I am stuck down here for a week and am free during the day.  Wouldn't
> mind checking out a shop in trade for a few beers!  Or, is there
> anyplace
> worth checking out?
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]