Hello Pat,

> when you disconnect the batteries, the odometer resets to 0.

Bull.

I'd bet he was told that the EMeter would reset to 0, and he was just unclear on
the concept.

On Thu Apr 12 07:34:39 PDT 2012 web@... said:
>Hello Pat,
>
>> when you disconnect the batteries, the odometer resets to 0.
>
>Bull.


--

Tigers prowl and Dragons soar in my dreams...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Cheers mate... I also have a Sparrow #9 ... but from Corbin Pacific ;-)  not
like yours from Corbin Motors.

Odometer definitely does not reset without power - that would'n be allowed.

Andreas

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: kwerks2001
   To: sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 12:24 PM
   Subject: [sparrow_ev] New Owner of Sparrow #9



   Good morning--I have just purchased #9 Sparrow from a person in California--I
live in Northern Virginia. I went to the Virginia DMV yesterday to register
Sparrow #9 and there was a problem with the odometer reading on the 'California
Certificate of Title' that was sent to me by the owner. The seller checked (X)
and signed 'Odometer reading is not the actual mileage'. When I inquired the
seller wrote back that it was explained to him that when you disconnect the
batteries, the odometer resets to 0. That wasnt much of an explanation and I am
concerned that the odometer reading is off (by how much?) and this discrepency
in odometer information will be printed on my new Virginia title. Has anyone
experienced my situation?
   Many thanks,
   Pat





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Anyone used any of these batteries?  Looks like a series string of their 60ah
cells would fit the Sparrow without fiberglass cutting.

> Anyone used any of these [Sinopoly lithium] batteries?

Sinopoly cells are formerly Thundersky cells.
That's what my solar Sparrow uses (40 Ah in a 2P55S arrangement).
http://enviromotors.com/wiki/index.php/Sparrow/ElithionUnderSeat#toc7
That's also what Jake's Sparrow uses:
http://enviromotors.com/wiki/index.php/Sparrow/ManzanitaMicroTS-LFPBattery

> Looks like a series string of their
> 60ah cells would fit the Sparrow without fiberglass cutting.

Yes, either the 60 or the 40 Ah will fit, vertically, under the seat.
(The 90 Ah and up won't: too tall.)
With a string of 55 each, 60 Ah, you'll get 10.7 kWh.
With 2P55S of 40 Ah, you'll get 14.3 kWh.

Davide

Jake's Sparrow doesn't use them anymore.  Jake's Sparrow got completely
demolished when I hit a deep puddle at 55mph back in January.  It hydroplaned,
spun and went down.  It slid down the highway on the door side until it bounced
off the median and flipped onto its other side.  Much of the body was ground
into dust.

I walked away nearly unscathed.  I shudder to think what would have happened if
I had actually decelerated rapidly by crashing into something.

Happy motoring,
Jake Oshins

-----Original Message-----
From: sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of davide
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 2:57 PM
To: sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [sparrow_ev] Sinopoly lithium


> Anyone used any of these [Sinopoly lithium] batteries?

Sinopoly cells are formerly Thundersky cells.
That's what my solar Sparrow uses (40 Ah in a 2P55S arrangement).
http://enviromotors.com/wiki/index.php/Sparrow/ElithionUnderSeat#toc7
That's also what Jake's Sparrow uses:
http://enviromotors.com/wiki/index.php/Sparrow/ManzanitaMicroTS-LFPBattery

> Looks like a series string of their
> 60ah cells would fit the Sparrow without fiberglass cutting.

Yes, either the 60 or the 40 Ah will fit, vertically, under the seat.
(The 90 Ah and up won't: too tall.)
With a string of 55 each, 60 Ah, you'll get 10.7 kWh.
With 2P55S of 40 Ah, you'll get 14.3 kWh.

Davide



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Jake,

I saw your yellow Sparrow in Kingston.
I live close by.
Sure looks like it got pretty banged up on all corners.
Inside looked like it protected you fairly well.
Could have been worse.
Lots worse.
Glad you are OK.

Greg



________________________________
  From: Jacob Oshins <jake@...>
To: "sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com" <sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 6:33 PM
Subject: RE: [sparrow_ev] Sinopoly lithium


 
Jake's Sparrow doesn't use them anymore.  Jake's Sparrow got completely
demolished when I hit a deep puddle at 55mph back in January.  It hydroplaned,
spun and went down.  It slid down the highway on the door side until it bounced
off the median and flipped onto its other side.  Much of the body was ground
into dust.

I walked away nearly unscathed.  I shudder to think what would have happened if
I had actually decelerated rapidly by crashing into something.

Happy motoring,
Jake Oshins

Davide,

So, how is the best way to get a quote for a 2p55s system?  Looks pretty clean
to me.

Greg



________________________________
  From: davide <web@...>
To: sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: [sparrow_ev] Sinopoly lithium


> Anyone used any of these [Sinopoly lithium] batteries?

Sinopoly cells are formerly Thundersky cells.
That's what my solar Sparrow uses (40 Ah in a 2P55S arrangement).
http://enviromotors.com/wiki/index.php/Sparrow/ElithionUnderSeat#toc7
That's also what Jake's Sparrow uses:
http://enviromotors.com/wiki/index.php/Sparrow/ManzanitaMicroTS-LFPBattery

> Looks like a series string of their
> 60ah cells would fit the Sparrow without fiberglass cutting.

Yes, either the 60 or the 40 Ah will fit, vertically, under the seat.
(The 90 Ah and up won't: too tall.)
With a string of 55 each, 60 Ah, you'll get 10.7 kWh.
With 2P55S of 40 Ah, you'll get 14.3 kWh.

Davide



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Greg,

> So, [what] is the best way to get a quote for a 2p55s system?  Looks pretty
> clean to me.

Looks to me like you just did the right thing to get a quote!
Hope that a neighbor fellow Sparrownaut sees this post of yours, and
offers to make the conversion for you.
(Tell us where your Sparrow is located.)

All the info on making the conversion is right there:
http://enviromotors.com/wiki/index.php/Sparrow/ElithionThundersky
If you don't want to do it yourself (or think you can't) find a EV
minded fellow to follow the instructions and do it for you.

Davide

I have used He-cell Lifepo4 cells, sky energy and Hi-power all Lifep04 cells. I
now have a set of Heter cells and they have tested out the best so far. I use
the Wicom bms and Elcon charger with can buss. Be careful about buying the
cheapest cells.
---- estatesale01 <estatesale01@...> wrote:
> Anyone used any of these batteries?  Looks like a series string of their 60ah
cells would fit the Sparrow without fiberglass cutting.
>

Congratulations on Sparrow ownership!!  I have never heard of the speedometer
resetting to zero when batteries are disconnected.  The four sparrows that I
have looked at did not do this at all.  I think he checked the wrong box.  Greg


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

looks like a banana.  and Im thrilled!  So glad this community is here.  I
actually did some searching here and found a bunch of posts from the original
owner about #334, ooo ancestors!

Mine too is in CA, and I must arrange for shipping to Seattle.  Anyone know if
Uship is the cheapest?  the general quote said $685.  Oh I cant wait!

Thas it for now, hope to talk with you guys.  but not too often.

Jaems

That sounds like a reasonable price.  I had mine shipped from Myers Motors (in
Ohio) to Seattle and Uship was a good price, but I couldn't wait the couple
weeks extra it would have been.  My biggest issue was getting the use of a
loading dock to get it off the semi.  I ended up sending it to Universal
Refrigeration (down by Spokane St.) so I could drive it off the truck and down
to streel level.  I could ask if you want to use them.




----- Original Message -----
From: "deeplisten" <jaems@...>
To: "sparrow ev" <sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 9:46:45 PM
Subject: [sparrow_ev] I watched your #9 go, then I got one of my own...#334!

 




looks like a banana. and Im thrilled! So glad this community is here. I actually
did some searching here and found a bunch of posts from the original owner about
#334, ooo ancestors!

Mine too is in CA, and I must arrange for shipping to Seattle. Anyone know if
Uship is the cheapest? the general quote said $685. Oh I cant wait!

Thas it for now, hope to talk with you guys. but not too often.

Jaems




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

When shipping a Sparrow (since most folks don't have a loading dock) the
easiest thing to do is have a flatbed wrecker meet the truck in a large
parking lot somewhere near your house. The wrecker can pull the Sparrow
directly off of the truck onto the flatbed and deliver it right to your
house. There is no hassle to do this and it should only cost you about $100
or less. I've had this done in the past and wouldn't do it any other way.



Dan



BTW, the best way I've found to ship a Sparrow is tied down to a large
pallet.







   _____

From: sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rbolstadfamily@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:39 PM
To: sparrow ev
Subject: Re: [sparrow_ev] I watched your #9 go, then I got one of my
own...#334!





That sounds like a reasonable price.  I had mine shipped from Myers Motors
(in Ohio) to Seattle and Uship was a good price, but I couldn't wait the
couple weeks extra it would have been.  My biggest issue was getting the use
of a loading dock to get it off the semi.  I ended up sending it to
Universal Refrigeration (down by Spokane St.) so I could drive it off the
truck and down to streel level.  I could ask if you want to use them.

----- Original Message -----
From: "deeplisten" <jaems@... <mailto:jaems%40comcast.net> >
To: "sparrow ev" <sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:sparrow_ev%40yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 9:46:45 PM
Subject: [sparrow_ev] I watched your #9 go, then I got one of my own...#334!




looks like a banana. and Im thrilled! So glad this community is here. I
actually did some searching here and found a bunch of posts from the
original owner about #334, ooo ancestors!

Mine too is in CA, and I must arrange for shipping to Seattle. Anyone know
if Uship is the cheapest? the general quote said $685. Oh I cant wait!

Thas it for now, hope to talk with you guys. but not too often.

Jaems

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sparrow Shipping

I recently bought #204 out of California.  It came with a nice enclosed trailer
with ramp and tiedowns.  Perfect for a Sparrow!!   I might be able to be bribed
to loan it for another Sparrow migration to Seattle.   Mine is here just outside
of Bremerton.  A short ferry ride from Downtown Seattle.

Greg


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Fellow Sparrownauts,

I purchased Sparrow(reservation No.146) S/N 179 in Feb 2012 in the Seattle area.
It had 3000 original miles, and was un-modified. It was in great shape, but had
some issues. The brakes were a challenge, but thanks to the group, I knew what
master cylinder to get, and solve that problem.

The original owner told me that the original batt pack had been replaced, and 
said that the new pack did not last very long.  I wasn't able to determine how
the batteries had been formed or any other discharge info.  The pack was
un-recoverable.  So, opted to stay with lead acid (New Optima yellow tops).  The
first charge, I watched like a mother hen.  The volts reached 213Vdc and I was
in a panic!!

Further research on the delicate balance of high voltage, Amps, and gassing has
lead me to search for the ultimate charging algorithm.

Is the TR.7r.05 the latest, and or the best algorithm for charging lead acid
AGMs that is available for the NG-3?  Myself and a friend who has also just
bought a Sparrow, want to get all of our chargers re-progammed at ElCon.

I've put 660 mi on the new battery pack, with the original algorithm.  Apr 15th
I lost my Vicor DC-DC converter while charging.  Smoked the LV side of the upper
module.  I've learned from Vicor that they are $341, and 5 weeks to get one
made.  I am thinking of using a dedicated battery to take the place of the DC-DC
converter.

Any help with the NG-3 algorithm would be greatly appreciated!!!  Thanks!!

Rob

Rob,
Congrats on your new Sparrow ownership.  ….And so it begins….
When I came to this site 4 yrs ago as a new owner with battery questions I was
told something to the effect that I would probably destroy my first pack while
learning to manage it. They were right, I did.
Having the best algorithm is good, and the TR.7r.05 is the latest but I think
you need more.
You need a way to monitor each battery during discharge and for charging you
need to monitor each battery and manage the charging.  For a Zivan charger there
is no control that I am aware of other than turning it off except manipulating
the temperature sensor which does not reduce the output enough to be useful.
There is a good description of what we're up against from the Rudman regulator
product page.
http://www.manzanitamicro.com/products?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage\
.tpl&product_id=87&category_id=22
I built my own charge controller system around the BattEQ equalizers (no longer
manufactured).
At the very least you could try the Lee Hart DIY regulator & balancer:
http://www.evdl.org/pages/hartregs.html   http://pw1.netcom.com/~fw/id7.html
Another Lee Hart DIY is the BattBridge for voltage sag monitoring. One
description is at http://evtv.projectooc.com/index.php?showid=6 (fast forward
60-61 minutes in)
Also, I use the IOTA-DLS30 as a DC/DC. Works fine but it's big.

Paul
#052


--- In sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com, "spammagnet05" <spammagnet05@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Fellow Sparrownauts,
>
> I purchased Sparrow(reservation No.146) S/N 179 in Feb 2012 in the Seattle
area.  It had 3000 original miles, and was un-modified. It was in great shape,
but had some issues. The brakes were a challenge, but thanks to the group, I
knew what master cylinder to get, and solve that problem.
>
> The original owner told me that the original batt pack had been replaced, and 
said that the new pack did not last very long.  I wasn't able to determine how
the batteries had been formed or any other discharge info.  The pack was
un-recoverable.  So, opted to stay with lead acid (New Optima yellow tops).  The
first charge, I watched like a mother hen.  The volts reached 213Vdc and I was
in a panic!!
>
> Further research on the delicate balance of high voltage, Amps, and gassing
has lead me to search for the ultimate charging algorithm.
>
> Is the TR.7r.05 the latest, and or the best algorithm for charging lead acid
AGMs that is available for the NG-3?  Myself and a friend who has also just
bought a Sparrow, want to get all of our chargers re-progammed at ElCon.
>
> I've put 660 mi on the new battery pack, with the original algorithm.  Apr
15th I lost my Vicor DC-DC converter while charging.  Smoked the LV side of the
upper module.  I've learned from Vicor that they are $341, and 5 weeks to get
one made.  I am thinking of using a dedicated battery to take the place of the
DC-DC converter.
>
> Any help with the NG-3 algorithm would be greatly appreciated!!!  Thanks!!
>
> Rob
>

Has anyone installed these LED turn and hazard light with arrow units

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp\
=%2Fspecs%2Fpt-a35-sfa.htm

into their sparrow?  I would like some input before buying these.

Plus, shouldn't my current front turning lights also function as low level
marking lights for nighttime use? I just noticed that mine do not come on and
stay on like the back lights.

Thank you,

Martin

I will be selling my 2000 Lime Green Corbin Sparrow (Pizza Butt # 158) that I
bought in 2004, plus enough electrical/mechanical spare parts to keep it going
for a very long time. Yes, it is my beloved Sparrow from my CorbinSparrow.com
webpage and can be seen here: http://www.corbinsparrow.com/id9.html  I also
uploaded some photos to the photo album under #158.

  I plan to put it out to the public in about 2 weeks but wanted to offer it up
here first if anyone is interested. Please note that this is NOT a fire sale,
and I will probably regret it, but I have too many collector vehicles and I
cannot drive them as much as I would like to.

  I am the second owner, having owned it for 8 years. I bought it with 2,800
miles from Spitfire Motors (Corbin dealer) in Washington State and it currently
has 3,657 miles on it. It was a "toy" for me and since it was part of my vehicle
collection, I never drove it in the rain or snow. I trailered it to many, many
car shows over the years.

The spare parts that come with it came out of an 864 original miles, undamaged
Sparrow that was parked in a warehouse and that the pack sagged on. The owner
did not want to replace the pack. I was told everything was fully functional
when parked and I have no reason to believe otherwise. However, I did not test
each individual part to verify.

The spare parts include:
       1.Complete rear swing arm with:
            a.Advanced DC 8"motor with both motor bells,
               mounting brackets and wiring
            b.drive cog with belt
            c.rear brakes including the two parking brakes
            d.rear shock
            e.rear hub
            f.belt guard
       2.Spare Zivan NG3 115v charger
       3.Stock Prestige P-96 radios (one new-one used)
       4.Link 10 E-meter
       5.Volt meter
       6.Speedometer
       7.Forward/reverse gauge
       8.High beam/blinker indicator gauge
       9.Vicor DC/DC Converter
       10.Spare battery cables
       11. Kilovac Controller
       12.Contactors-  forward/reverse/main
       13.Shunt
       14.EVCL circuit
       15.Throttle pot with wiring
       16.Fuse box
       17.Battery mounting brackets
       18.EVBC Board box
       19.BRB
       20.Misc small items such as inertia switch,
           ignition switch, relays, fans, etc.
       21.Spare V8 Chip

I also have a California Superweave Car Cover that goes with it.


The pack in #158 only has about 500 miles on it but I replaced it several years
ago. It has Ed Ang battery regulators, V9 float chip, Zivan remote temp probe
and remote LED mounted in a fiberglass pod with Cyberdyne Digital ambient temp
gauges. It also has custom rims, lighted and color painted mirrors, and has
aircraft grade high temp heater hoses that should never melt! The belt was
replaced at 3300 miles.

This Sparrow has never been driven below 156V and although the battery pack is
older, it still holds a decent charge. Everything is in working order in it
except that the analog amp gauge is temperamental -working fine sometimes, and
other times does not. The paint is in beautiful condition but there are some
spider cracks in the front end that have remained unchanged since I have owned
it.

I would like to sell the Sparrow with all off the parts as one unit. I may
consider selling the Sparrow and parts separately, but if I do so, the parts
will only be sold all together as one. I am not interested in breaking up the
parts and selling individually.

I MAY consider delivering the Sparrow and parts to within a 150 mile distance of
my home (Totowa, NJ) in my enclosed car trailer for a fee to be discussed with
buyer. However, any further than that and the buyer would have to make their own
shipping arrangements.

(I can put the parts on a wooden pallet for shipping purposes and have them
truck loaded via forklift from a local business address. Buyer would be
responsible shipping costs and for making shipping arrangements.) I can email
more photos of the Sparrow or parts if needed.

Ok, now for the price:
I think that based on the amount of electrical/mechanical parts included, a
realistic and reasonable price is $12,000 for everything.  I don't like to
haggle, so I'm firm on that.  If you are seriously interested in it, please
email me (Chad) at ckr1@....

I'm sure I'm gonna regret this….

What is the deal with these?  Why do they sound so cheap?  or am I missing
something?  a full Sparrow LIFEPO4 pack for $600??

Can someone please tell me the diameter for the front brake disks on NMG
Sparrows? I am changing the front steering spindles on #007, right hand one was
damaged. I've got a pair from Myers Motors and the front brake calipers are
fouling on my brake disks when I try and fit them to the new spindles. It looks
like the easy solution is to get the disks turned down to a smaller diameter. My
disks are 252mm.

The disks on my #004 are 10 inch (254mm)
 
Scot


________________________________
From: Greg Fordyce <greg@...>
To: sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 10:49 AM
Subject: [sparrow_ev] Front brake disk diameter


 
Can someone please tell me the diameter for the front brake disks on NMG
Sparrows? I am changing the front steering spindles on #007, right hand one was
damaged. I've got a pair from Myers Motors and the front brake calipers are
fouling on my brake disks when I try and fit them to the new spindles. It looks
like the easy solution is to get the disks turned down to a smaller diameter. My
disks are 252mm.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Scot, your disks are probably the same as mine. The Myers spindles are
different from the original Corbin spindles. It looks like they will lower the
front about 40mm and widen the track 40mm. I am guessing that the caliper
mountings where changed to give more brake caliper clearance for the smaller
wheels. This one still has the original wheels. Just trying to figure out how
much smaller the disks should be, not as easy as it looks, take to much off and
you can't put it back.

Greg

--- In sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com, SRWILS <srwils@...> wrote:
>
> The disks on my #004 are 10 inch (254mm)
>  
> Scot
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Greg Fordyce <greg@...>
> To: sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 10:49 AM
> Subject: [sparrow_ev] Front brake disk diameter
>
>
>  
> Can someone please tell me the diameter for the front brake disks on NMG
Sparrows? I am changing the front steering spindles on #007, right hand one was
damaged. I've got a pair from Myers Motors and the front brake calipers are
fouling on my brake disks when I try and fit them to the new spindles. It looks
like the easy solution is to get the disks turned down to a smaller diameter. My
disks are 252mm.
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

9.5 inches

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2012, at 10:49 AM, "Greg Fordyce" <greg@...> wrote:

> Can someone please tell me the diameter for the front brake disks on NMG
Sparrows? I am changing the front steering spindles on #007, right hand one was
damaged. I've got a pair from Myers Motors and the front brake calipers are
fouling on my brake disks when I try and fit them to the new spindles. It looks
like the easy solution is to get the disks turned down to a smaller diameter. My
disks are 252mm.
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 23/04/12 21:07, ndullgent1@... wrote:
> 9.5 inches

Thanks,

Greg.

--
"The Stone Age didn't end because we ran out of stones.
   The Oil Age will end not because we ran out of oil,
   but because we found a better way to drive ourselves."
      Shai Agassi, Founder and CEO of Better Place

--

Greg's Garage (Galashiels) Ltd
Unit 4, Waukrigg Mill
Duke Street
Galashiels
TD1 1QD
01896 751777
http://www.go-ev.co.uk

Greg's Garage (Galashiels) Ltd is registered in England.
Registered office; 34 Bertie Road, Cumnor, Oxon, 0X2 9PS.
Company number; 5239466.

OK, the front turn signals are not wired to function as low level markers on
sparrow #207.  The third wire is cut, and does not ran back to the light relay
controls. Has anyone corrected this?

Also, has anyone who has upgraded to LED lights for turn signals install an
Electronic LED Flashers as well to reduce the voltage?

Any help would be great. Before I invest the money in LEDs.

Thank you,

Martin

--- In sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com, "griffmar7" <griffmar7@...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone installed these LED turn and hazard light with arrow units
>
>
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp\
=%2Fspecs%2Fpt-a35-sfa.htm
>
> into their sparrow?  I would like some input before buying these.
>
> Plus, shouldn't my current front turning lights also function as low level
marking lights for nighttime use? I just noticed that mine do not come on and
stay on like the back lights.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Martin
>

I priced out all LED's for my jellybean... With the $50.00 flasher times two
(you also need one for the emergency flashers) the cost was going to be over
$250.00... I passed.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 24, 2012, at 1:44 PM, "griffmar7" <griffmar7@...> wrote:

> OK, the front turn signals are not wired to function as low level markers on
sparrow #207. The third wire is cut, and does not ran back to the light relay
controls. Has anyone corrected this?
>
> Also, has anyone who has upgraded to LED lights for turn signals install an
Electronic LED Flashers as well to reduce the voltage?
>
> Any help would be great. Before I invest the money in LEDs.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Martin
>
> --- In sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com, "griffmar7" <griffmar7@...> wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone installed these LED turn and hazard light with arrow units
> >
> >
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp\
=%2Fspecs%2Fpt-a35-sfa.htm
> >
> > into their sparrow? I would like some input before buying these.
> >
> > Plus, shouldn't my current front turning lights also function as low level
marking lights for nighttime use? I just noticed that mine do not come on and
stay on like the back lights.
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > Martin
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

After removing the fender I took your advice from this thread and used epoxy to
replace the broken out pieces of the fender that were still attached to the
bracket.  After about 24 hours, I used a fiberglass repair kit on the underside
to cover the area and reinforce the repair with two layers of cloth.  Once that
set, I was able to drill out the mounting holes and it has been on the road for
several hundred miles already.

Some of the local people had concerns about the fiberglass adhering to the
plastic fender, but it seemed to work well after scuffing the surface up.

At the same time, I ordered a replacement fender from Myers just to cover myself
because I had no idea if, or for how long the repair was going to work.  I am
glad I went both routes by both repairing the old and ordering a new fender.

So far, the repair is holding up.  But it took a while to get the fender...it
arrived yesterday.  Rick had told me that it was a much stronger fender being
used these days....and it really is!  The fender is fiberglass and it is a much
stiffer and stronger material.  Should mine break again, I will use the new one
and repair the old to use as a backup.

Martin,
I replaced all 4 lights with LEDs front and rear. Power savings was not the
issue. I wanted the brightest lights I could get. So, instead of replacing the
flashers to keep the flash rate up I added some 10ohm 10W resisters I had in
parallel with the turn signals. That brought the flash rate to about 1/sec. In
addition to getting LEDs that are the brightest I wanted the viewing angle as
wide as possible since the Sparrow lights are mounted at an angle to the
centerline. I never found any info published for these replacements so you just
have to take what you get. I wired the front tail light leds to the headlight
low beam (it was convenient). I plan to wire them to the rear tail light circuit
in the future.
Paul
#052

--- In sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com, ndullgent1@... wrote:
>
> I priced out all LED's for my jellybean... With the $50.00 flasher times two
(you also need one for the emergency flashers) the cost was going to be over
$250.00... I passed.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 24, 2012, at 1:44 PM, "griffmar7" <griffmar7@...> wrote:
>
> > OK, the front turn signals are not wired to function as low level markers on
sparrow #207. The third wire is cut, and does not ran back to the light relay
controls. Has anyone corrected this?
> >
> > Also, has anyone who has upgraded to LED lights for turn signals install an
Electronic LED Flashers as well to reduce the voltage?
> >
> > Any help would be great. Before I invest the money in LEDs.
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > Martin
> >
> > --- In sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com, "griffmar7" <griffmar7@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Has anyone installed these LED turn and hazard light with arrow units
> > >
> > >
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp\
=%2Fspecs%2Fpt-a35-sfa.htm
> > >
> > > into their sparrow? I would like some input before buying these.
> > >
> > > Plus, shouldn't my current front turning lights also function as low level
marking lights for nighttime use? I just noticed that mine do not come on and
stay on like the back lights.
> > >
> > > Thank you,
> > >
> > > Martin
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Paul,

Thank you very much.  I feel much better about ordering the lights now.  Plus,
my wife had her heart set on the blinking arrow turn signals and I think they
are cool too.
The resister will be easily soldered in, and the taping into the low beam to
correct the running light issue is a great idea. I didn't really want to remove
the dash to switch out the relay and spend the extra money. 


Thanks

Martin



________________________________
  From: pdwarrenann <pdwarrenann@...>
To: sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 3:53 PM
Subject: [sparrow_ev] Re: Front trun and hazard lights?


 
Martin,
I replaced all 4 lights with LEDs front and rear. Power savings was not the
issue. I wanted the brightest lights I could get. So, instead of replacing the
flashers to keep the flash rate up I added some 10ohm 10W resisters I had in
parallel with the turn signals. That brought the flash rate to about 1/sec. In
addition to getting LEDs that are the brightest I wanted the viewing angle as
wide as possible since the Sparrow lights are mounted at an angle to the
centerline. I never found any info published for these replacements so you just
have to take what you get. I wired the front tail light leds to the headlight
low beam (it was convenient). I plan to wire them to the rear tail light circuit
in the future.
Paul
#052

--- In sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com, ndullgent1@... wrote:
>
> I priced out all LED's for my jellybean... With the $50.00 flasher times two
(you also need one for the emergency flashers) the cost was going to be over
$250.00... I passed.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 24, 2012, at 1:44 PM, "griffmar7" <griffmar7@...> wrote:
>
> > OK, the front turn signals are not wired to function as low level markers on
sparrow #207. The third wire is cut, and does not ran back to the light relay
controls. Has anyone corrected this?
> >
> > Also, has anyone who has upgraded to LED lights for turn signals install an
Electronic LED Flashers as well to reduce the voltage?
> >
> > Any help would be great. Before I invest the money in LEDs.
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > Martin
> >
> > --- In sparrow_ev@yahoogroups.com, "griffmar7" <griffmar7@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Has anyone installed these LED turn and hazard light with arrow units
> > >
> > >
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp\
=%2Fspecs%2Fpt-a35-sfa.htm
> > >
> > > into their sparrow? I would like some input before buying these.
> > >
> > > Plus, shouldn't my current front turning lights also function as low level
marking lights for nighttime use? I just noticed that mine do not come on and
stay on like the back lights.
> > >
> > > Thank you,
> > >
> > > Martin
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]